Method of forming concealed stitches



an. 23, 1923r R. R. HUGHES, JR

METHOD oF FORMING CoNcEALz-:D ST1 Tcl-Es Fx LED MAY 29 l 91 9.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1 Jam. 23, i923. LMZ? R. R. HUGHES, JR. METHOD oF FoRMlNG CoNcEALED STITC`HES.

F|LED MAY 29, 1919, 3 SHEETS-SHEET 2 S11/went z Jan. 23, E923. iAlLZ? R. R. HUGHES. JR. METHOD 0F FORMING CONCEALED STlTcHEs.

FILED MAY 29. 1919. 3 sHEETs-sHEETA3 f ff M ky f@ y j@ vwenkoz Patented dan. .23, 1923.'

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ritos ROBERT R. HUGHES, JR.,.OF UTICA, NEW YORK, SSIGNOR TO UNIONVSPYECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION 0F ILLINOIS.

METHOD 0F FORMING CONCEALED STITCHES.

.Application med may 29,

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, ROBERT R. HUGHES, Jr., a citizen of the United States, residing at Utica, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Forming Concealed Stitches, of which the following is a description, reference being had tol the accompanying drawing and to the iigures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and usefull improvements in the method of forming concealed stitches-that is, stitches which do not show on the right or face side of the material being stitched.

An object of the invention is to provide an improved method of stitching the folded parts of a fabric or fabric sections, so that the vthread from which the loops are formed for uniting certain of the parts will lie within the folded portions thereof and be concealed from view on the face or vright side ,of the fabric. A

In the drawings- Figure l is a side view showing the essential parts of a sewing machine arranged for carrying out my imp-roved method;

Figure 2 is a sectional View through the `article being stitched, and showing the po` sition of the parts just as the needle is about to enter the material for securing a strip to a y body fabric;

. Figure 3 is a perspective view showing the manner of guiding and folding the strip which is stitched by my improved method to 'a body fabric;

Figure 4 is a view similar to Figure 3,'but from a different angle and showing the binding strip in section, and in dotted lines the manner of leading the binding strip to the stitching point;

Figure 5 is a sectional view through a fabric and a binding strip secured to the fabric by my improved method of forming concealed stitches;

Figure 6 is a sectional view through a strip folded to form a belt loop and stitched by my improved method of forming concealed stitches.;

Figure 7 is'a sectional view through a fabric and a tape whichis stitched to the fabric Vby two lines of concealed stitches formed by my improved method of stitch- 111g 3 Figure 8 is a sectional view showing two .consists in reciprocating the needle 1919. Serial No. 300,650. i

sections of fabric folded and u nited in part by concealed stitches and in part by through and through stitches of the usual character. The invention consists broadly in a method of forming concealed stitches which of a stitch forming mechanism at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support, folding and guiding a binding strip about the edge of the body fabric and about the path of the needle, vand turning the upper edge portion of the binding strip around and underneath the line of reciprocation of the needle in front of the point where the needle penetrates the materials for stitching, and directing the inturned portion of the binding strip across the path of the needle so thatthe needle thread will be laid by the needle along the upper face of the inturned portion of the binding strip, formed into loops which pass through the inturned portion of the binding strip, the body fabric and the portion of the binding strip on the opposite face of the body fabric from that entered by the needle. The invention it is thought will perhaps be better understood by reference in detail to the figures of the drawmg which show oneway of carrying out my improved method. Y In Figure 1 of the drawings, I have shown 'more or less diagrammatically a feed do l,

guide 3. This fabric guide is formed with an outer guiding wall 45 and' an inner guiding wall 5, beneath which is a guiding recess for a fabric strip, which in the present instance, is to be' stitched to a body fabric. The fabric strip is indicated at 6 in the drawings and the body fabric is indicated at 9. The guiding walls 4 and 5 are bent around as indicated at. 7, so as to fold the edge of the strip. T he guiding wall at the opposite edge of the guide may be shaped so as to direct the other edge of the strip for folding the same; or, if desired, said guiding walls may be shaped for folding the edge. The essential feature consists in the infolding or inturning of the edge of the fabric strip at the side of the fabric where the stitches are to be concealed. The stitching needle is indicated at 8 and is arranged so as to move in a line which is at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support. The normal stitching point is the point where the fabric.

needle penetrates the fabric for inserting a loop of the stitching thread through the lt will be noted that the strip 6 is led to thel stitching point in the general direction of movement of the needle and with the body portion of the strip at one side of the needle path,` while the edge of the strip is folded around to the other side of the needle in the regionadjacent the normal stitching point. YVhen the strip passes underneath the presser foot it is directed or deflected at an angle to the path of the needle amlthefneedle will, therefore, penetrate the folded in edge of the strip.

Referring more particularly to Figures 3 and 4. it will be noted that the strip has an infolded edge 10 which lies underneath the right side or face portion 11 of the binding strip. Said strip is also carried underneath the body fabric 9, as indicated at 12. The needle 8 passes through the infolded or inturned edge 10, thence through the body 'fabric 9, and thence through the portion 12 of the binding strip where the needle loops may be anchored in any suitable way, so as to form single thread chain stitches, or

double locked stitches, or said loops may be anchored by a shuttle thread passing directly therethrough forming a lock stitch.

The completed article is shown more or less in detail in Figure of the drawings. It will be noted that the binding strip is secured to the body -fabric by stitches which are concealed from view on the face or right side of the goods, which is the upper side,`

as viewed in this ligure. The needle thread n lies along the edge of the binding strip between the infolded or inturned edge 10 and the face 11 of the binding strip and the loops Z go down through the body fabric and the lower face 12 of the binding strip where they are anchored, as above described. In Figure 6, I have shown the parts of the binding strip stitched together by my improved arrangement of stitching mechanism and folder with the body fabric `omit ted, thus forming a belt loop. Said belt loop consists ofa face portion 13, having inturned or infolded edges 14 and 15, which are overla-pped'and these edges are united by a stitching thread 16 which lies between the infolded or inturned edge 14 and the face portion 13 of the strip and the loops formed in the thread by the needle extend downwardlyl through said inturned or infolded portion 14 and the inturned or infolded portion 15. v

In Figure 7 of the drawings, I have shown a tape stitched to a body fabric bytwo lines of stitches formed by my improved method of making concealed stitches. The tape isv indicated at 17 in thisv figure of the drawings, and is provided at one edge with an infolded or inturned portion 18 and at the other edge with an inturned or infolded portion 19. A needle thread 20 lies between the inturned portion 148 and the upper face portion of the tape 17 and the loops extend through this inturned portion and the body fabric, which is indicated at, 21. A needle thread 22 lies between the inturned portion 19 and the face of the tape adjacent thereto, and loops formed in this thread pass down through the inturned portion 19 ,and the body fabric 21.' These conceal/ed stitches are formed b folding the edges/bf the tape about the pat 1 of two spaced needles in substantially the manner above describedand said tape is led at an angle to the path of the needle at the normal stitching point, so as to cause the infolded portions to cross the path of their respective needles and thereby the stitching thread is passed in loop form through these inturned or infolded portions.

In Figure 8 of the drawings, I have shown two fabric sections secured together in one operation, by two parallel lines of stitching, wherein one of the line of stitching consists of concealed stitches formed in accordance with my invention. One of the fabric sections is indicated at 23 yand the other is, indicated at 24. The fabric sectionv 23 has an inturned or infolded portion 25. A needle thread 26 lies between this inturned. or in- I' that various otherv uses may be made of my improved method 7 of forming concealed stitches for unitingv folded parts of fabrics or fabric sections.

The essential feature ofthe invention` consists in the uniting of the parts in one and the same operation and in the laying of one or more of the threads which unite the arts, so that the thread is concealed by the olded parts of the fabric sections which parts are lfolded before they reach the stitching point.

It is obvious that changes in the details of the steps of the method described may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, asset forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. The method of stitching a'fabric and concealing the stitches in the folded parts of the fabric which consists in forming thread loops by a needle reciprocating in a line at an obtuse angle to the plane ofthe fabric being stitched, folding and guiding the folded parts of the fabric around the path of reciprocation of the needle, inturning the upper edge portion of said folded parts underneath the line of reciprocation of the needle in front of the point where the needle penetrates the folded parts for stitching, and directing said-inturned portion of the folded arts of the fabric and the underneath portion thereof across the path of the needle whereby said inturned portion is stitched to the underneath portion of the folded parts of the fabric and the stitches concealed from view at the upper or face side of the fabric.

2. The method of applying a concealed stitched binding to a body fabric, consistingin formn a series of thread loops by a needle reciprocating in a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the fabric being stitched= folding and guiding a binding strip about the edge of the body fabric and about the path of the needle, turning the upper edge portion of the binding strip around and underneath the line of reciprocation of the needle, and directing said edge portion across the path of the needleat the stitching point whereby said needle is caused to penetrate said inturned portion of the binding strip, the body fabric and the portion of the binding strip on the under face of the body fabric.

In testimony whereof I ax my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

ROBERT R. HUGHES, JR. Witnesses:

WALTER OTooLE, CHAS. A. BAEoHLE. 

